Ask Zenid

Zenid is a former IT specialist, DIY fanatic and postgrad researcher who loves tinkering with gadgets and making improvements including electrical work, plumbing and mechanics. He also loves photography, and carries his Lumix DMC TZ-8 around with him whenever he can.

He is an ardent admirer of hi-tech solutions and is the only person he knows who has a biometric lock on his front door.

This blog documents his journey with the Ego Street Scoota (also manufactured under the names Saiting, Dichao, Haocheng, Xinling, UK Eco and GoSpeed), performing modifications, upgrades and general improvements to try and push this little bike to its very limits.

If you have any problems, and need to ask any questions please post your query below or on the Endless Sphere Forum.

186 Responses to Ask Zenid

  1. Melissa P says:

    My son bought a Ego Scoota approximately one month ago – the front brakes have gone out and after having three different bike type mechanics look at it they all said the Master Cylinder is bad….it won’t keep pressure in the front brake line and after bleeding lines – no pressure…WHERE CAN HE GET A NEW MASTER CYLINDER? The store he bought it from went out of business and I have no idea where to get one or what it costs. Please help 🙂

  2. otto says:

    Hi Zenid,
    great and very comprehensive blog on EGO scooter. Can you or perhaps someone else tell me, if the existing 48V controller uses regenerative braking? I am thinking about modifying the scooter with Lipo batteries, as I have very good experience with them on electric bike.
    I have made adaptor for the existing power meter to work with a higher battery voltage. The benefit is one does not have to dismantle the instrument panel, just three wires to connect. Can I mention it here?
    thanks otto

    • zenid10 says:

      Hi Otto,

      Thanks! glad you found it useful.

      No, the 48V controller that comes with the Ego scooter does not support regenerative braking. For that matter neither do many of the stock 72V controllers out there. If you want regenerative braking, it’s probably best to get the ecrazyman 72V controller, as that is known to support regenerative braking. Ian or Mike on the Electric Motoring Forum can give you more information on how to enable this feature if you take that route.

      As for your adaptor, feel free to post a link to information about it, although I’ll bet it’s similar to alternative solutions already suggested on the forum I mention. You might also consider posting your solution for discussion there also.

  3. tony says:

    i like my ego scooter.i would like to improve its performance .but lack the tecnical abilty, is there anyone that could do this for me ? bristol uk

    • zenid10 says:

      Hi Tony, I’m afraid this industry is just to young for these types of services to be commercially available. Your best bet is to find somebody not to far from you who’s prepared to do it for you. You might try making enquiries on the Electric Motoring Forum, whose members are primarily UK electric scooter owners.

  4. T.Kaye says:

    Hello Zenid.

    I go by the name of “The Mighty Volt” on the Endless-Sphere. I have what I believe to be the exact same 48v Hua Tong Controller. I also am looking at the same 72v Hua Tong that the boys on the ES are trying to mod. I have identified a very small, upright 5 pin connector in the 48v controller. DO you know what this could be used for? I came across this controller and the corresponding hub motor on Ebay and picked up one of them. Cheers. TK.

    • zenid10 says:

      might be for a TTL connector that could be used as a USB interface to program it, but without knowing where this connector is or what it looks like on the board, I can’t really say. You might just post pictures to the Hua Tong thread in Endless Sphere and see if anyone there has any ideas. You might also say where you got it from and show pictures of any markings information on the case itself.

  5. Robin says:

    I live in the states and was told the Ego went out of business. Is this true. We are looking to replace the charger, or at least the fan in the charger, but don’t have any idea as to where to get one. Have any suggestions?

    • zenid10 says:

      To the best of my knowledge these bikes are still being produced, if not under the “Ego” brand name, then under many others like the “UK Eco” scooters and others. The actual manufacturer of the Ego is Saiting, and copycat designs are everywhere. They are all constructed very similarly, out of standard parts, making it quite easy to get hold of spares.

      If your charger is dead or malfunctioning then I would advise you to get a new one, They’re not that expensive, and I sell them in my shop. If you are interested, Let me know if you want a quote for US shipping.

  6. Ducsi says:

    Hi Zenid,
    Thanks for the clear and useful articles, I love them.
    As I read you have Zephyr BMS and CellLog and both are assembled with ATX connector to have connection to the cells. Do you connect BMS during charging your battery pack and when you on the road you plug the connector of CellLog only?

    • zenid10 says:

      Thanks 🙂

      Yes, that’s right. In my experience it’s not important to have the BMS cell circuits connected while using the bike (or even the BMS at all) as it is incredibly unlikely – in my opinion – that the regen will ever risk overcharging the cells. In any case the CellLog HVC setting can warn you of this if you set it up so the alarm output is visible or audible while you’re in motion.

      So, yes, you do have to switch the Battery pack ATX connector to the BMS for charging, and then back to to the CellLogs for monitoring the packs while you’re in motion.

      It would be nice to avoid this by having a “two-headed” ATX splitter that can allow the battery pack to serve both at the same time, but I doubt that these exist. It would not be hard to make one, but it’s a bit of a tedious job… For now I’m content to just unplug the cable whenever I need to charge.

  7. andy says:

    Hello Zenid. I was hoping to pick your brains, please. I have a UK Ecoscooter and it’s been at the garage for a few weeks now. They tell me they need a detailed internal wiring diagram of the controller and the wiring diagram I sent them from this site didn’t do the trick.

    The problem this time is with all the lights/indicators.

    Are you able to help please? Alternatively, do you offer a service to fix these bikes yourself?

    Many thanks, Andy

    • zenid10 says:

      I suggest you go to the Electric Motoring Forum to post specific details of your problem there. Myself and others can help try to figure out what the problem is and instruct you in what to do to go about diagnosing and fixing it. I would help out with actually fixing people’s bikes, but obviously the issue of shipping your bike whatever distance just isn’t going to be viable in most cases. I can only really offer hands-on help if you live in the Nottingham area.

      • andy says:

        Thanks very much, Zenid. I’m on the Forum and will post something. I’m near Aylesbury so hiring a van and getting the bike to Nottingham isn’t the worst contingency plan!

        Cheers, Andy

  8. Mick Tilley says:

    Before you upgraded to 72v, did you ever source any 60v controllers?

    • zenid10 says:

      No. I went straight to a 72V controller. When I was in 60V mode, I just used the original 48V controller. It was okay being overvolted by this amount.

  9. Aaron says:

    My rear light wont work when turned on, the brake light works when I pull the hand brake or drop the kick stand. I’m assuming it is a loose or broken wire between the three pin plug and the switch as the front light comes on and the wiring between the bulb and connector is ok. the rear light wire is yellow which attaches to green and thus it’s the same on my bike but their are lots of green wires running through the cable tidy’s all the way to the front of the bike but only 1 solid green cable at the front. My question is which cable at the front of the bike coming from the back is the rear light cable?

    • zenid10 says:

      Yes. It sounds like there’s a break somewhere along the wire from the little three pin plug (see wiring schematic “Rear Lights“), though these types of breaks are quite rare. Have you taken voltages with a multimeter both at the socket for the bulb (across yellow/green) and at the little plug (between green and brown)? You need to do that to be sure that this is indeed the problem. I also assume you’ve checked the bulb! If it is the problem, then is it’s easy enough to fix, just be careful doing it and always take multimeter readings before connecting wires.

      What you need to do is find the wire that serves the front headlight (see wiring schematic “right handle control unit“) and follow it in to the loom. It should be white/green striped. It should be obvious as the light switch “on” will make it 12V while “off” is nothing. You can run a wire off of that and run it back through alongside the main loom and connect it onto your yellow wire to circumvent any break. When you first get that wire back, tap it to the yellow while the switch is on to make sure the rear light comes to life.

      You might want to have a spare 10A fuse handy too. There’s one on the 12V system to protect the converter if you short it, and if you do anything wrong it’ll blow and need replacing (very straightforward).

      Hope this is useful. Let me know how it goes.


  10. Brad says:

    Hi Zenid

    You have one of the best explanations of how a BMS actually works and I’ve been looking for this info for about 6 months now.
    Thank you, now I can sleep at night!
    I do have one question for you regarding the BMS.

    How do you monitor each cell of a 48 cell pack when you have them wired in parallel with only 16 inputs on your BMS?

    Do you have a wiring diagram of this?
    I want to make my own pack for an electric bicycle.

    Thanks for all your help!


    • zenid10 says:

      Hi Brad,

      I’m glad to hear you found my BMS write-up useful!

      It’s a 24s2p pack, which means there are 24 inputs to 24 cell pairs, totalling 48 cells. You cannot monitor the individual cells of a cell pair separately, just the pair itself.

      I wrote up a section on monitoring cell pack voltages here. In my case I built a little gadget made out of three 8s CellLogs wired into an ATX connector. It’s fairly self-evident how it’s connected to the pack. Hope this helps.

      Best wishes,


  11. shaun says:

    hi zenid,i bought a controller off you last year,still going strong.ive recently bought a lyen controller 18fet 4115 mosfets high power,i know you have one of his.iam struggling to get the program working on the computer and the controller to work,also need some advise on lithium battery ive just built 120 there any chance of you helping me to figure it all out please,i dont know that much about electrics.ive put the program on my laptop mk2 version,drivers put on ok and done the bat files 4 times ok.put the programming lead in and connect the controller ,i then selected the 18fet controller on the program hoping the default settings would come up and see the controller,but it doesnt.i also bought a cycle analyst off him,but the controller didnt work when plugged in,unplugged the controller got it working.only for a short time wheel in the air setting 1\ 45mph setting 2\ 75mph and setting 3 \110 mph with no load on it,uve never seen anything like it lol.blew a line of batteries in pack,took them out repaired the pack.tried it again on setting 1 worked for a second then made a noise and slowed ,sounded like an hall sensor wire had come off checked them ok,dont know what the low voltage cut out is set at because cant get into the controller settings on computer ,can you please help a desperate man cheers shaun

    • zenid10 says:

      Firstly, you should never, ever, ever, ever just plug in a programmable controller, switch it on and hope for the best. You HAVE to get the programming software working with the TTL/USB interface FIRST, and very carefully set it up with low current settings to test it, monitoring the controller temperature as you gradually raise the current settings.

      So the first thing you need to do is get your software working. I suggest also that you post your issue to forums as well as here, so that other people can suggest things to try to get it working too. Presumably you’re getting some kind of failure message on controller software, or COM port errors. You have to go into more detail about what the problem is before I (or anyone else) can help you here. So say exactly where you’re having problems when you try to program it. If settings aren’t appearing by default, you have to set them manually, taking very great care.

      • shaun says:

        thanks for the reply,in the installation manual.that you download from lyen.tells you to temporarily set it up and try it ,to make sure everythings functioning.which ive done,ive followed the instructions to what he’s sent,getting nothing from the computer to what the controller is set on.i thought i would put the controller in to the usb-ttl adapter ,says put in your 18 fet controller asv, and it will pick it up.then show the default settings.the box comes up with the 12 fet controller settings.theres nothing to tell me what values to put in any of the boxes.i told lyen i was running 120 volts on the battery side ,thats 40 lines of 26650 batterys 3amp hours each total power 133 volts settles at.told him to set the lvc accordingly,he said the controller is set at 95volts default.i think when the row of batteries went down ,its gone into a safe mode.i know its got protection built in overload.can you help to reset it please thanks shaun. p.s want some of them battery indicators off you for my pack

      • zenid10 says:

        If he tells you to plug it in to make sure it works prior to programming, then presumably he has preprogrammed it with some fairly safe settings. I’m afraid you really need to talk to Lyen about this, as he’s the one who builds them and provides the software to program them. You are using very high voltages that are way above the 100V limit of the 4110 FETS that his controllers usually come with. Has Lyen put different FETs in your controller?

  12. shaun says:

    yes ,i have purchased the 18fet super highway controller with the 4115 fets in it,you may put in upto 150 volts.i have built a 120 volt pack,hot off the charger 134 volts,i have told him all this in several emails,what i have told you.but seems very slow getting back to you have the same program to change the settings on the computer with the usb ttl lead,if icould reset it i think it would be ok,but when i plug the controller into the computer its not picking it up,thus not showing me the default settings,to what lyen has set them to.yes he programmed it before i got it,told him the pack what i had built and what type of battery the voltage,so when it came it would work with no know what its like when you had yours,and wanted to get it up and running

    • zenid10 says:

      I think you misunderstand the way the software works. It does not tell you what settings are ON the controller, it just allows you to overwrite the existing settings with your own, and to save those to files so that you can reload them and modify them later.

      What yuo need from lyen is the settings file that HE used to preprogram your controller. You can then modify these accordingly and update the controllers settings with this. Lyen should be able to send you a file to do this.

      I know he sometimes takes a while to get back to people, you just have to be patient. Alternatively you could ask someone with a similar controller to email you their own settings file or a screenshot of the settings dialogue so that you can copy the settings manually.

  13. shaun says:

    thats exactly what ive asked for,ive got the box coming up.but all empty.after i read your blog i wanted one,can you sort me some of those digital battery readers uve put on your battery with the bleeper on please,shaun

    • zenid10 says:

      Yes, the dialogue will be empty because you have to either fill these values in yourself, or load a settings file.

      Yes, I have some CellLogs available here.

  14. Anthony Smith says:

    Please can you help I have a EPED CITY 60volt / 1,200 watt.. it has stopped and will not go.. the company I bought this from is now out of business lights dont work none of electrics work except when I put Battery charger on ( only when charger is plugged in ) it will not charge .. I havec checked the batteries and they are all OK ?? could it be the speed contoller so anyone out there knows wher I can get one .. Many Thanks

    • zenid10 says:

      Sounds to me like battery trouble. Check the voltage across the pins of the connector on the bike where you recharge it, but BE CAREFUL as it’s easy to short them with the multimeter probes which will make a scary load of sparks. It’s best to deal with more problems like this requiring an ongoing dialogue on a forum. Can I suggest you post any further questions to the Electric Motoring Forum, and I’ll answer them there. You’re also more liable to get helpful suggestions from other.

  15. moonsmirk says:

    Okay, new to all this, but desire to build my battery pack, thus, need to build the BMS. Love your site, but where on earth do you buy the circuit board kits, I keep looking but can’t find what you’ve made, please clue me in some. don’t want to buy premade, Thanks, Deb

    • zenid10 says:

      Hi Deb,

      I included a link to the Goodrum Fechter BMS thread on Endless Sphere, but don’t know the current availablity of the boards. Try PMing GGoodrum or Fechter to ask if they still have PCBs for sale. Details of getting the components for the boards are included on the thread. If this fails, there are other ways of charging larger banks, like by using smaller, 8-cell charger balancers together like the Turnigy one linked.


  16. Dean says:

    Hi Zenid

    This blog is amazing! I was wondering if you have any knowledge on the Wispa Electric scooters? I ask this because I am trying to implement an improved controller as part of my final year engineering project, but I am having a number of difficulties.

    Firstly, are the brushless hub motors: PMBLDC or PM synchronous motors? This is because when I drive the motor with another motor and measure the induced line to line back EMF, I get a sinusoidal waveform instead of an altering trapezoidal. (Now I understand that I am not measuring line to neutral, but I wasn’t expecting a near perfect sin wave for line to line).

    Secondly, in order to bench test the controller and motor, I have used an old motor and controller. Therefore I have not got any of the correct signals in terms of the ignition and break switch. Would it work to make a simple 12V regulator and connecting them both to 12V logic through a safety swtich? (this question comes after analysing your image)

    I would REALLY appreciate your help in this regard

    Thank you in advance


    • zenid10 says:

      Hi Dean,

      Thanks, I’m glad you enjoy the blog. I’m afraid I don’t have enough technical understanding of the electronics of hub motors to be able to answer the first question, however I don’t doubt you’ll find plenty of people with the expertise to help on the ‘Motor Technology’ section of Endless Sphere

      As for bench testing a controller and motor, it’s fairly straight forward to simulate the inputs for ignition and brake states, though it depends on how standard your controller is. If it’s like the ‘generic 72V controller’ I describe on my blog, then all you need to do to simulate the ignition being on, is to link the ignition 72V high wire to the main controller power 72V positive. As for the brake system, if your brake line is the 12V high I describe then a simple 12V signal from a battery should suffice, but I think the battery and the controller need to share a common GND (take care trying this).

      The only other thing you will need is a throttle, but this can be simulated by building a dongle to return about 3V of the 4.5V outputted from the red wire of the throttle connector, back into the green wire, with the black GND being shared. You should be able to get away with just shorting the green and the red (providing the black goes to common GND) but I haven’t tried this yet to see if it works.

      I hope this is of some help!


  17. Dean says:

    Thanks Zenid. I managed to get it working. It was exactly as you described. Just had to tie the key to the live DC bus. I thought it was on a 5 V signal. But I was obviously wrong.

    In terms of the first question, it turns out that my hub motor is in fact a PM synchronous motor. This means that it should actually be driven by sinusoidal wave forms in order to operate at its highest efficiency. It turns out that the controller is driving it as a BLDC motor though. I am going to design and code a PMSM controller using FOC and will let you know which of the two do actually perform better for this motor.

    Thanks for the help.


  18. Richard Fettes says:

    Hi Zenid
    Just bought an ego scooter which has not been used for over 2 years so I think that it needs new batteries. I see that they are 12 volt 28 amp. Were do you recommend for replacements as they will be expensive?

  19. shaun says:

    zenid,i have aload of controllers that dont work,do you do controller a reasonable cost,thanks,shaun

    • zenid10 says:

      Sorry Shaun, I’m not equipped to repair controllers. Frequently, they cease working after blowing a FET, but replacing FETs can be fiddly and frequently involves fixing other components on the board too, and is best left to specialists like Lyen or eCrazyman.

  20. shaun says:

    cheers zenid,iam going to read your blog later mate.i didnt know about the camera’s had gatso on them,iam well slowing down now in future when i see the jobs you do on your scooter,blowing all these things up and breaking make me smile because ive done all thease things aswell on my electric push bike,and i thought i was the only one with bad luck.seems not lol,ive just made mine 2wheel drive awsome72volts,that lyen controller has blown up 3 times now,i think ive got a badun, the last time it blew on low power everything was perfect.its got the 4115s in aswell,paid good money for it.keep up the good work,will be ordering another controller off you next week for my mate,he swears by them.thanks shaun

  21. Eileen Gane says:

    Hi Zenid, do you know anything about Crooza electric scooters?

  22. Michelle Howland says:

    Hi I’m looking for the wiring diagram for a Sakura s200 electric bike do you have any ideas? Thanks

  23. shaun says:

    HI zenid,i want to purchase a couple of the 8 s cellman monitors off you,am i right thinking the connection on the side is an atx connector as same as on the bms’s. where do i get the ATX connectors from to fit the device.if you could help me please to get the propper connectors for two of them i will have them off you,also what charger would you reccommend for the 16amp hour headway cells,my friend has lent me a cc/cv charger 2amp,it’s taking me 24hrs a battery to charge individually down to zero.its a 48 volt pack consisting of 16 cells.the packs been standing for 6months,is there one out there that will do more batteries in one go,thanks shaun

    • zenid10 says:

      Hi Shaun,
      The CellLog monitors take a 8S JST-XH connector as described in the technical specs. They’re available cheaply from eBay, but I don’t have them in yet because I’m trying to find a supplier who sells them in bulk.
      For charging/discharging multiple cells a Turnigy Accucel charger discharger is handy, as it will balance up to 6 cells at the same time, but really you need a BMS system which will charge and balance all 16 cells of your pack via the tap wires. I built my own Goodrum-Fechter designed unit for this, but off-the-shelf BMSs are available also. I suggest you take a look round on Endless Sphere to see what’s out there in this respect, as I’ve not dealt with them.

    • zenid10 says:

      Hi Shaun,

      I answered your queries on my blog. Though I don’t have the 8s connectors for these, I found some 4s connectors in my drawer, which could be used temporarily for testing while you await some 8s ones (these 4s ones are the same design, but can use 5 of the 9 pins on the CellLog at a time), and I’d be happy to throw one in for free to get you up and running quicker.

      If you order today, I can mail a couple out first thing tomorrow and they may well reach you Saturday.

      Best wishes,



  24. keith says:

    i have a 60v 27ah lifepo4 battery with a 45amp bms and a crystalyte hs 3540 what would be the ideal controler values be for speed and distance

  25. keith says:

    I have a 60v 27ah lifepo4 battery with a crystalyte hs3540 wheel what controller do you recomemnd for speed and distance

    • zenid10 says:

      H Keith,

      I suggest you post something to Endless Sphere about this. Controller settings depend on lots of things and it’s impossible to say without more information about your system. Establishing optimal settings is usually a matter of trial and error, as they are contingent on so many things, not least what it is you’re driving.

      Best wishes,


  26. Paul Arnett says:

    Hi there, great blog and has encouraged me to do a scooter conversion, one question, in all your poking about in controllers did you see a temp sensor, i’ve a controller that shows an “OH” light (overheat) on the dash even when cold but I can’t see an obvious thermistor in the controller (and its not in the motor either!)

    • zenid10 says:

      No. I’ve never met one with a built-in temperature sensor, but they probably exist. What I have is a thermal probe attached to the controler, and that I can connect to a readout as I take my bike for a test run with the controller on various settings. As a rule of thumb, it’s best to have it so at peak temperature – say after thrashing the bike for a few miles on a hot day – doesn’t go over 70 celsius or so. Less powerful controllers run cooler. So I’d advise you get a digital thermometer with a thermal probe and test the case temperature yourself. If there is a thermal warning feature on the controller, it might have just gone wrong. Best to check yourself.

  27. Lesley Macaulay says:

    Hi Zenid,
    I have now joined the ranks of Ego Scoota’s with a faulty Hall sensor.
    Thanks very much for your usual clear instructions and photographs – they’ve been invaluable and I’ve been able to diagnose the problem and I’ve got the wheel off..
    I’m having trouble getting the stator out of the main wheel & wonder if you could assist?
    1) should I remove the Allen bolts from BOTH sides of the wheel or just the side with the cable coming out? (is this what you mean by the left side?)
    The first 8 were not easy and needed some gentle persuasion!!!
    2) Can you explain “resting the left-side end of the axle on a piece of wood and applying a bit of force to the tyre by pushing down firmly on it”?
    I’m so looking forward to the stator “popping out”. LOL
    I have the wheel clamped in a workbench and have tried pulling up on the axle and a few gentle taps with a hammer to loosen the casing, but it seems solid.
    Any suggestions appreciated.

    • zenid10 says:

      Yes. You remove the little Alan bolts on the side where the cable goes in. Then use the plank-of-wood method I described, kneeling down on the tyre to pop out the stator. It might be a bit stiff, so WD40 it up a bit if it doesn’t come of easily. Be careful with those bolts, they strip easily. If they strip, then tap the alan bolt bit into the bolt head with a hammer to make it wedge better.

      As for kneeling on the tyre, it is just as I show in this picture.

      The wire side of the hub motor is facing up, and the axle on the other side digs into the wood (to stop the thread from getting scraped up). You then kneel with your knees on either side of the tyre and bear down with your weight, – the stator should pop out.

      • Lesley Macaulay says:

        Hi Zenid.
        First of all, apologies for not getting back to you sooner – I thought I’d requested an email when you replied but didn’t get one. I was also a bit nervous of trying again.

        Good news though – I finally got the hub to “pop out” with a squirt of WD40 and bit of persuasion from the flat side of my hammer!!!

        Bad news – the wiring in mine seems different to your instructions.
        The connector is the same but the sensor wiring is as follows:
        Left side – green, black, yellow
        Centre – blue, green, black
        Right side – yellow, blue, blue
        I’ll post some photos on the electric motoring forum so you can see the problem.

        Hope you can help again.
        Thanks & Regards,

  28. George says:

    Please can you show where I can get by -60 charger Ac input:240v50/60hz Dc output:72v2.8A my number 07507213266

  29. Wal says:

    Hi Zenid, Excellent blog 🙂
    I have a 60 volt model Ego scooter, think my controller has blown, Please can you tell me if a 48 volt ego controller will be a viable replacement?
    Thank-you for your time

  30. zenid10 says:

    Hi Wal,
    Thanks. If you have a 60V battery bank, it’s best to stick with a 60V controller. A 48V controller CAN usually be overvolted to 60V (see the 60V upgrade blog entry), but if you’ have to replace a controller it’s best to get the same type as the one you’re replacing.

  31. Wal says:

    Thank-you I appreciate the help, I will take your advice on the matter, only asked as i have been offered a 48v controller for £20 🙂

  32. Larry says:

    Hi Zenid:
    I have an old wisper 905SE in NA with a 10 amp controller and 15 amp with derestrict button. Is there anyway to modify the controller pcb board that it is a 15 amp controller with a 25 amp derestrict button? I did not want to have to replace the whole controller and wirings etc. If it is possible with ie. soldering. What would I be looking for?

  33. Chaz says:

    Hi,I have a ego street scoota could anyone please tell me where the break kill switch I’d and how to disconnect? Thank you xx

    • zenid10 says:

      The brake kill-switch is usually a white or yellow wire going to the controller, which usually runs to the 12V+ brake-light circuit. When the brake-light is activated, the controller is deactivated by the 12V from the brake circuit. Just disconnect the wire in question from whatever it plugs into in the loom.

  34. Chaz says:

    Hi wondered if you could help me?? I recently bought a ego street scoota off eBay! Brand new still in wrappers, I charged it before I used it I went 4 miles just b4 my destination it leopard stopping starting, I left it to cool
    A few hours before I set off again home ( downhill) it got me near home again and did the same, so I charged it I did the same again day after and did the same , the 3rd day I got to end of my street I put my back break on to stop it made a grinding sound and cut out, I smelled smoke it was smoking from the controller, I bought a new controller fitted it but now the bike will not start again could you help me ease I’m desperate 😦

    • zenid10 says:

      So it ground to a halt and stopped working, but then started again once you’d left it for a while. It sounds to me like your battery pack has a bad battery (or batteries) in there. It should be a simple matter of checking the voltage across each of your battery’s terminals, preferably after the bike’s stopped the way it did. A voltage much lower than 12V should be a giveaway, especially if the reading is much, much lower than the rest. Then it’s just a case of replacing the bad battery with a fresh, new one (motorcycle shops should have them). You could even trying salvaging it with a desulphinating gadget. It has been known to get them to come back to life.
      Sorry about the delay in replying, I’ve been very busy elsewhere.

  35. Brett says:

    I have an Emax scooter that looks very similar to the ego, you have inspired me to start down the crazy mod ruote. First thing new shocks and tyres. Thanks for the awesome blog im looking forward to the next post. Have you considered installing a Cycle analyst?


    • zenid10 says:

      Hi Brett,
      Glad you you enjoyed the blog. I did consider installing a cycle analyst but think they’re a bit overpriced. Instead I got an ammeter bar(?) and sensor to put in series that would measure current. But I haven’t gotten round to fitting it yet. Maybe one for a future post.

    • zenid10 says:

      I have a similar thing, but cheaper that will just give me an amperage reading, but I haven’t gotten around to installing it yet. I’ll post something about it when I do.

  36. Salvofan says:

    Hi Zenid,
    fantastic website! I just got some problem with my Ugo (re-brand for same Ego scooter here in Ireland) and I found it….tons of useful info!
    It is a couple of days that the scooter is not working, it doesn’t go…however, if I push the wheel and then accelerate it “very slowly” I can see it takes up…but if I accelerate a bit more it cut off the motor. Very strange. Not sure if the problem is the controller or the Hall sensor…or something else :(.
    At the moment it is still “original”… 48V battery pack that I’m thinking to upgrade to 60 or 72V. Question is: If my problem is the controller and I have to change it, can I use a 72V 1500W even with a 48V battery pack? In this way I won’t need to change it again when I upgrade the batteries.
    Thanks a mil!

    • zenid10 says:

      Hi Salvo,

      It could be a couple of things. Firstly, you need to check that the batteries are getting charged, or that one of them isn’t worn out or faulty. Measure the voltage using a multimeter, across those prongs where you plug in the charger. For a 48V bike, you should be getting a reading of 46-58V, depending on the state of charge. If that’s not happening the it’s a battery/charger issue.

      Regarding upgrading to a 72V controller, in their original state 72V controllers have an lvc (low voltage cutout) that’s set for a 72V battery pack, however it is possible to modify a 72V controller to change this, but I would advise you only try making such a modification if you have some experience of electronics. There’s a thread here, that can give you pointers on doing this.

      So if you have to change your controller, you might as well just go for it and do a 72V upgrade, in my opinion. You need to be careful, but it’s not an especially difficult job. My site has full instructions on how to upgrade to 72V.

      • Salvofan says:

        Hi Zenid,
        thanks for your feedback. Of course with a multimeter in my hands I went through all stuff. I have to say when I opened it first time I was “fairly” sure about the problem. In fact the bar where all cables are connected was completely melted down! Picture here:
        I also noticed that the wheel wasn’t free to go, as something was holding it….basically two of the contacts of the motor were shorted!
        I just changed it (I had to remove the rings as I didn’t find a valid substitution in my near by shop.
        Fact is that it is now perfectly working and it is not getting too warm (consider that I get the scooter to go to work everyday, with my girlfriend and other stuff – 150Kg in total) for about 10KM…and on the way back there is a very high hill before our place.

        This just reminded me one post you wrote about opening the scooter to ensure all cables are properly screwed! I think this should be a general advice TO EVERYONE!!!

  37. Chris says:

    Hi, I am just wondering if you have wiring diagramm for the FT Dichao 2000w Eco Scooter. I have had a couple of people playing around on it and I think they have messed up the wiring.

  38. Salvofan says:

    Hi Zenid,
    Thanks to your website I’m really looking into doing modification and improvements to my scooter.
    I’m trying to understand first of all what my controller can support, before I buy a new one.
    It is a 48v, and it should work with 60v (I’ll do the upgrade in a couple of weeks) but I’m wondering if there are extra “features” unused that I can wire into the scooter.

    In fact there are a few unused wires coming out, more than you have on your “standard” one, but less than more sophisticated controllers I’ve seen around.

    I’m trying to understand what they could be for. Would you have any guess?

    In total I have:
    – 3 colours (phases for motor)
    – 3 colours (throttle)
    – one red: power
    – one purple (brake)
    – 5 hall sensors


    – 2x white (they can be conneter each other – I guess 60′ instead of 120′)

    – 3 brown-orange-blue

    Would you have any idea? You might have seen something similar while browsing to find your new controller.

    Thanks in advance,

    • zenid10 says:

      Hi Salvo,
      In my experience you always end up with at least a couple of connectors on controllers that you don’t use or whose function is not clear. I just ignore them.
      The white self-connector is standard, it’s to switch between 60° and 120°, as you suspected.
      It’s rumoured that some of these controllers can support ‘reverse gear’ and regenerative braking, so that’s another posiblity, and some of the connectors like that brown-orange-blue one are sometimes labelled “alarm”, although I have no idea what they do! Sorry I can’t be of more help on this one, I suggest you post that message on Endless Sphere.

      • Salvofan says:

        Thanks Zenid. I will do it for sure. Keep going with your website…it is amazing the amount of info and the details you put in!

  39. zenid10 says:

    I just finished testing one and now I’m packing it up. I’ll mail it tomorrow morning 1st class Signed For.

    Best wishes,

  40. evelyn faber says:

    Good lets hope it arrives and works!!!Many thanks and will let you know when it gets here.

  41. Hi Zenid, great writeup on the regen mod for your controller. I have the same issue, I’m running 26s lifepo and regen also doesn’t work on my 18fet lyen controller. Mind if I ask how difficult it is taking the controller electronics out of the case to do the mod? I’m hoping it’ll be simple enough with little chance of screwing things up!

    • zenid10 says:

      Hi Patrick,
      It’s not particularly difficult, just put the screws (end plate and along one side of the case) somewhere safe, and try to avoid wiping off the thermal paste on the heat-sink if you don’t have any of your own handy. As long as you can solder a simple connection it should be fine.

      If you’re running 26s, rather than 24s, then you will need a different resistor value. I calculate that you need about a 28% adjustment factor to the existing 1.2KΩ R12 resistor to get your target regen voltage. So you will need to make the R12 adjusted resistor value about 860Ω. To achieve this figure, you will need a 3.0KΩ resistor in parallel in place of the 6.2KΩ one needed for a 24s pack. This will give you a modified R12 value of about 857Ω and a regen voltage of about 96V at the “75” regen setting of the controller. Make sure you check the new R12 value with a multimeter (preferably before soldering) when you add the new resistor.

      Just be careful and it should be fine. I would advise you to practise soldering on some junk first if you are uncertain of your skills, or get someone else to help out. Good luck with it!

  42. Andrew says:

    Hello Zenid,

    I was reading your blog, and you told recently that you had to replace some headway cells from you pack. How long do these cells last in your pack? you abused the cells or used normally respecting DoD and other things?

    I’m asking because i want to buy some headways cells directly from factory in China, so that means that i don’t have any chance to get warranty in case any cell goes bad.

    I’m leaning toward A123 20ah cells tested by a trusted seller (not the bad ones from China), but i heard they suffer if i dont use really strong compression, so i am risking my hard earned money.

    Lastly i can use NMC or NCA 18650 Cells but these are expensive and not as safe as Lifepo4.

    Can you please give me some advice, because i’m stuck with these options and don’t know what to choose. I’m probably going to use 50V 20ah or 2 X 36 V 20ah packs for a bike with a MAC motor and 40 Amp controller.

    Thanks in advance.

  43. David Angus says:

    hello Zenid

    i have the ego scoota, i havent riden it on the road in the last 12 months now the rear wheel will not turn. The side where the wire enters the hub does not spin. i was thinking of opening up the hub to see if they was rust on the spindle but the allen nuts have also seized up. do you have any ideas, do you think opening the hub is the right idea?

  44. Milan says:

    Hi Zenid,
    Great blog & website! I have an Electricycle Retro 3.0 which has a Hi/Lo speed switch on the throttle assembly. About a year ago, I hit a pothole which resulted in my twisting the throttle hard against its end stop. This action has offset the throttle: in rest position it applies a little power, twist a bit and it cuts the power off. Continue twisting and it gradually re-applies power further. I have got used to this, but it can be annoying in slow traffic.

    I tried forcing it back (by twisting against opposite end stop), but it won’t budge and I fear breaking something. I had a good look at it, but cannot for the life of me figure out how the throttle assembly is attached to the handlebar.

    You talk of a screw which attaches the switch you sell in your shop, but there are no further details in your blog about dismantling the throttle assy. I cannot see any fixing screws on my throttle.

    I also thought that the switch has a separate wire to the controller, but it does not. There is just the standard 3-wire lead from the throttle assembly. So are you then effectively selling a throttle controller with incorporated switch? How does the twist handle interface with this?

    I guess all these throttle assemblies are generic. So please give me some further clues if you can, on how to take it apart and repair it. I am prepared to purchase your controller if necessary.

    Thanks for your help.

    • zenid10 says:

      Hi Milan,

      The throttle setup on your bike is not of the same type of the Ego and other scooters like it. Out of the factory, these only have a throttle, which connects to the controller via a three-way black/red/green connector. The speed controller is separate item (see the shop) consisting of a three-position rocker switch which connects to another part of a speed-control enabled controller (see via a similar connector.

      Your throttle control (and controller, probably) seem to be of a different type, and the throttle has clearly gotten messed up. I recall the same difficulty in locating the bolts securing it on my bike too. Mine turned out to have an easy-to-miss, deeply recessed Alan bolt in little hole in the throttle housing – you should be able to get at it with an Alan key and get the unit off that way. The bad news is that you probably won’t be able to fix it, and will probably be better off just getting a replacement from a supplier or from an owner scrapping one for parts. You might try the usual forums (endless sphere etc.) for leads in this respect.

      Right now I’m away visiting family, but if you need any more help figuring out how to remove the throttle I can take a look at mine when I get back.

  45. Milan says:

    Hi Zenid,
    Thanks for your quick reply. I’ll have another look at it.

  46. Matt says:

    Hello Zenid,
    I have a couple of questions if you don’t mind, first is on a ego street scoota,
    I’ve just bought it, it’s three years old, 3k miles. It doesn’t go, when you twist the
    Throttle it sometimes makes a clunk from the rear wheel, any ideas..?

    Second is I’ve also bought a e-max 120sd which is spankingly new
    And unregistered, I would love to fiddle with it from new, any ideas, it’s 48v.

    I’m a locksmith with a shop and loads of tools, welding gear and a
    Turbo charged nitrous oxided 94 honda civic. I can do cars but scratch my head
    when it comes to electrics… Any tips would be lovely .

    Matt from Brighton

    • zenid10 says:

      Hi Matt,

      Firstly, did you charge it? If so, what’s the voltage reading you’re getting from the bank? You can get the bank reading by taking a voltage reading across the prongs of the charge socket on the bike (be careful not to short the prongs, with your multimeter probes). A fully charged 48V SLA bank usually reads 50-56V.

      If that’s okay, then you have an issue either with the controller, the hall sensors on the hub motor, or the wiring connecting it all together (unlikely). The easiest way of getting to the bottom of it is getting one of these:

      You can then plug its connectors into the controller or the hub motor ends of the wiring to get an instant diagnosis via the blinky lights. If the controller’s dead, you replace it, and if a hall sensor is broken on the hub motor, you’ll have to take it apart and fix it. See “4.9. Hub Motor – Diagnosis and repair” and its child sections for more info about the latter:

      As for your second bike, I haven’t heard of the model, but they’re all usually pretty similar, just with differences in layout and wiring. You should be able to upgrade any 48V to a 72V bike by replacing the controller and converter as detailed in my upgrade section.

      You could do a 60V upgrade first, just to get your feet wet, but remember that overvolting your existing controller will result in a false reading for your energy meter, so you will need to check the voltage manually to avoiding running down the batteries.

  47. Sue says:

    Hi does anyone know where I can get cheaper insurance for my ego scoota I insured it last year and it cost me £300 third party only


    • zenid10 says:

      Hi Sue,

      Sorry about the delay in getting back to you. If you’re in the UK, do a search on the Electric Motoring Forum to see who’s being recommended. I’m personally with Bikesure, and 3rd party, fire and theft sets me back about £140 a year.

  48. mark says:

    Hi, I have just bought a secondhand 48v street scoota, that has only done 49 miles since new , its a 2008 reg. The problem I am encountering is when the throttle is turned, the back wheel just pulses, and seems to have no torque, I have metered all of the batteries, and all are showing about 12.9volts, do you have any suggestions as to what the trouble may be. thanks, mark

  49. zenid10 says:

    Hi Mark,

    Could I refer you to my reply (2014/05/03 at 11:21 am) to Matt’s post of May 2, 2014 at 7:08 pm, two posts previous to this one? He has a similar problem which requires similar checks, and for which the same advice applies.

  50. zinzet says:

    how can I order BMS, at the shop they are sold out…
    can I buy the sketch of the printed circuit board and the components list?

  51. Milan says:

    Hi Zenid,

    I found that throttle alan bolt you mentioned a while back! I still have an offset throttle though, and may need to invest in a new one like the one you sell.

    This is especially since my controller blew recently. I decided to invest in a Lyen 12 FET 4110 based on your excellent extensive review & recommendation.

    It arrived recently and I gave it a test run in its default profile. It seemed underpowered and could not get me up my first hill. It also got very hot. So I decided to reflash a different profile (more current) but it would not work then. So I went back to the default profile and it worked but underpowered again.

    I emailed Edward Lyen seeking advice, but as you know, he is sometimes slow to respond, and I’m still waiting. So I thought I’d ask you as you have a lot of experience with this. Here were my questions to him:

    Yesterday, I tried flashing the controller with a new profile. I changed a few settings on the example (default) profile such as current (increased Rated to 50A, Phase to 125A), Low Voltage to 60V, (batteries were reading 66V), and speed mode settings. (I used Board type EB318 as per the sticker on the unit.)

    After flashing, nothing happened: the motor would not run. So I reflashed it back to the example profile, and it worked again. Riding performance was the same as in my previous email to you (could not get up the hill).

    So I reflashed again just changing the current & voltage settings, and it would not work again. Each time I had to get the controller on & off the bike to take it to my pc. I need to get this SW on a laptop so that I can do it in situ!

    Please advise why it does not like some combinations of settings and what is the correct procedure to follow to get it working & getting more power out of it. Also some other questions relating to the SW:

    1. What is the relationship between Phase & Rated current? If I change one, what should the other be?
    2. Is the Volt Tolerance a hysteresis value related to Low Voltage?
    3. What should Regen Voltage be for my 60V system: 60V or 75V?
    4: What are the3/4Speed Switch settings?
    5. What are the Default speed settings for? Example profile is set to Speed1, but with the 3-speed switch connector open, you said it is in speed mode 2. How does this work then?
    6 I guess Drive Saving, 1+1 Choice, PAS Start Pulse and 1+1 Max Spd are all related to pedal assist bikes.

    Thanks in advance for your help Zenid! FYI, my scooter is speced at 3kW and a 60V system.



  52. zenid10 says:

    Hi Milan,

    1) Phase is usually set to 2.5 times rated, but some people run on other multiples. That setting has always worked for me.

    2) I don’t know. Best ask in Endless Sphere.

    3) 75V should be best. As a rule of thumb, the charge voltage should be around 1.25 times the nominal bank voltage, but this value can be a little higher for regen. As long as they don’t exceed the 100V that the FETs can support.

    4) See my blog entry here:

    5) See 4. Basically you short X1 or X2 to ground to get the other speed options. This might have changed slightly as I hear they now support 4-speed. Best get that info from Lyen or other Endless Sphere members.

    6) I’m not familiar with these.

    One problem might be due to your lvc setting. This should be set for a few volts UNDER your nominal bank voltage. If you set the lvc to 60V, then it will cut out as soon as your bank voltage goes even slightly lower than this. For a 60V bike I’d set it to about 56-58V. Hope this helps. If you’re having problems raising Lyen, you might try contacting him through Endless Sphere, on his email, and leave a post under his controller thread on Endless Sphere. Eventually he’ll check in and notice.

    Best wishes,


  53. Milan says:

    Hi Zenid,

    Thanks for your reply. It also occurred to me today that the problem might be in the lvc setting. I’ll try changing one thing at a time until Lyen gets back to me.

    Did your Lyen controller get very hot too? I was running mine at 30A (rated) & 80A (phase). You are nearly double that & I saw the “adding a heatsink” section of your blog.

    My controller is strapped to the side of the battery compartment so it gets some airflow (water & dirt too). I am thinking of strapping a finned heatsink to its top surface.



    • zenid10 says:

      I attached a thermocouple to my controller to give me the case temperature. Generally it topped out at about 70°C after being thrashed for a while in hot weather, which is about the acceptable limit, according to Lyen. As for my settings, however high I set my controller current settings doesn’t make any additional difference now, as apparently that’s all the hub motor is capable of pulling. But that’s not always the case, and people have blown FETs or burnt out their controllers by having the settings too high, so play it very carefully.

      To properly calibrate it, you really need a digital thermometer to tell you the case temperature. Obviously a heat-sink will help, but you don’t want burning the controller to be the first sign that you’re pushing it too hard.

  54. zinzet says:

    Hi Zenid!

    Can you help with buying of Zephyr BMS 24S? Or offer other help?

    • zenid10 says:

      Unfortunately this batch have all gone, and there won’t be another until I can afford a run. I might take pre-orders for the next if there’s enough demand. If you’d be interested, add your name at the bottom of the Zephyr sales thread.

      Also, you might try just posting on Endless Sphere and asking if someone’s got one spare. There’ll probably be someone who hasn’t got around to using theirs yet.

    • zenid10 says:

      I’m happy to report that I’m now ready to take pre-orders for the new, 4.4b version of the board. You can order through the Goodrum-Fechter page of the shop:

  55. Milan says:

    Hi Zenid,

    It turns out the LVC setting was the problem. Lyen got back to me and explained that as I have a modified 72V controller, the LVC formula is: program LVC = real (LVC + 2) * 0.75.

    I started with rated current at 30A and upped it to 35, 40 and lastly 45A. Phase current was always 2.5 times this. None of these changes seemed to help me get up my hill. I always stopped at the same point.

    However, with the 40A setting I was able to hit 45mph flat out!

    It seems to me that at speed, the motor has good torque and good acceleration. This is lacking at low speed when I set off from my house up the hill. On another, probably steeper hill, when I had a bit of a run up to it, the bike pulled me up it without stopping.

    Any ideas about this? Are there any other settings which might affect this? The controller was not getting too hot – I could just about keep my hand on it – even in this hot weather we are having!



  56. zenid10 says:

    I heard of a trick where you program the controller with different settings to make it into think it’s a different type of controller, then use half the actual current value in the interface, giving you twice the maximum power through the controller. Here’s what Lyen specifically told me in a PM:

    “Yes, I found another way to go beyond 64A rated current. It is to use the EB312 board type for your profile. The actual current will then be twice of the program current settings.”

    If you’re getting 45mph on the straight then I’m confused as to why you would be having problems with getting up a hill. I’m afraid this i something you’d have to talk to Lyen about. You might just have something set up wrongly, or an issue with phase/sensor wires or with your motor, or maybe a dead hall sensor (though I doubt this if you’re otherwise getting good performance.) I’m afraid you’ll have to talk with him or other people using his controller.

    Sorry I can’t be of more help.

  57. Ron says:

    Hey Zenid – found you via Google. We are a couple of guys in manchester designing an electric mobile camera platform. We are struggling to find a UK supplier of 72v Lifepo4 battery packs over 50ah ….. any ideas? We can’t go to China until we have prototyped and raised finance! Sorry to bother you……

  58. Paolo says:

    Hi Zenid, your website is amazing!
    Zenid I’ve got an Ego scoota, but recently I realise that makes a nosise in the front wheel. According with the garage is the wheel bearing, I wonder how can I get the replacement? Any idea? How do you get all this part that you need?
    Another problem is there is no electrisity in the front part of the scooter. It runs very well and I can see the battery level, but the front light the horn etc. are not working. According to the garage I need a bed “electric box” no idea if this is the real name, but is the aluminium box under the seat. What you think? How can I fix my scooter. You are my only hope.

    • zenid10 says:

      Hi Paulo,
      Bearings for the front wheel should be just the same type as any ordinary moped or scooter, so first I suggest you get someone from a specialist motorbike/moped store to see if they can identify and provide you with the type you need. Failing that, have a look on Endless Sphere or even eBay for any Ego parts.
      As for the problems with your electrical system, it looks like your DC-DC converter no longer functions and you need a new one. I stock these in my shop:
      These units are what power your bike’s 12V system.

      • Paolo says:

        Hi Zenid! You definitely identified the problem, thanks men. The wheel is now fixed, I followed your advice and also I check the DC-DC and indeed I found the problem. A circuit was burn I think is a diode. I went to maplin but they couldn’t identified what kind as it’s black burned, only two lines where visible red in one edge and light brown in the other side. I was wondering if I send you a picture would you be able to identified what diode is it please?

      • zenid10 says:

        Sorry, I don’t know anything about their inner workings, – if one fails, then it’s easiest just to replace it than risk damaging your bike’s electrics with a hit-or-miss repair. I sell them in my shop here, or you could try the forums and see if someone has a second hand unit for sale. If you really want to try and repair it, then I suggest you post photos with a query on Endless Sphere Forums.

  59. Milan says:

    Hi Zenid,
    Just writing to vent my frustration. My new Lyen controller has just blown after only 42 twelve-mile runs! The current setting was at a conservative 45A, and I have been in brief contact with Lyen about it.

    It failed while moving, there was a rapid clicking sound, and then no power. Upon opening the controller, There was soot & ash all over the board, and at least a couple of exploded FETs. I took photos & sent them to Lyen, asking him if he wants me to return it to him, but he has not replied for a few days now. I guess I ‘ll see what happens next, maybe he is on holiday….

    Right from the start, I was suspicious about this controller on my bike. Acceleration from standstill was slow and it could not get me up my local hill. However, it did manage a top speed of 45 mph.

    Comparing it with my previous controller, it is about 2/3 of the size, but uses the supposedly super-duper 4110 FETs. These are rated at 130A vs 70A (at Tc =100C) of my original FETs. But, I had 10 FETs per motor phase (5 on hi-side, 5 on low-side), vs only 4 in the Lyen controller. So this allows for 5 x 70 = 350A in old controller vs 260A in Lyen. Similarly, max power dissipation per FET at 25C is 370W (4110) vs 200W.

    So does this make my old controller a 2000 W (10 x 200) model, and the Lyen only a 1480 W model? What is it about a controller that governs top speed? Are some bikes speed-limited using info from the hall sensors? Or is it just current limiting? But how did then Lyen get up to 45 mph?

    In the meantime, I have been searching the web for other sources of controllers. Apart from eBay, I came across a company called Kelly Controls, which claims it is based & does design in the USA but builds in China. They have a huge range of controllers & e-bike/scooter accessories, and a lot of info on their site. A suitable controller for me might be the following (not particluarly cheap) , but it appears well designed:

    In the meantime, let’s see what Lyen will offer me…



    • zenid10 says:

      Hi Milan,

      Sorry about the delay getting back to you, I’ve been on holiday. I’m not sure about the maths behind your controller, – best get hold of Lyen on that. He does sometimes take a few days to get back to people as he is very busy, and – as you say – he might be on holiday. I suggest you leave a post on his controller thread at endless sphere or PM him there if you haven’t already. As for top speed, lots of things can affect this, but often overlooked are is the tyre size you use. Getting bigger ones and a more powerful controller like the one you have (once repaired) can give you 15% or so improvement in top speed.

      Just wait until Lyen gets back to you and take it from there.

  60. Aaron Jones says:

    Hi Zenid,
    Riding my ego scooter to work when all of a sudden it started to judder. The motor seemed not to have any power. The Battery light indicator show’s power. It seems like when I pull the throttle the motor engages but then struggles to move.
    I got this home and fortunately (appears not so), I had a spare… I put this on and it worked fine, until my wife asked how I was getting on so I twisted the throttle to show her and the motor died. This second motor continues to run freely when I spin it by hand whether it has the throttle on or not. The first motor resists but struggles to rotate when the throttle is on but runs freely when the throttle is released.
    Any Ideas as to what the problem is with both motors as I am banging my head against a wall!!!!
    Thanks in advance

    • zenid10 says:

      Hi Aj,

      Sorry, about the delay in replying. I’ve been away on holiday. Regarding your problem, since you’ve ruled out the motor as being the cause of the problem, that just leaves the battery bank or the controller.

      First, check the voltages on each of your batteries, which are usually housed under the seat. I am assuming they are Lead-acid, 12V cells. If one is dead or dying then replace it, and that should fix the problem. The cells are in series and all it takes is one for the bank to no longer function and deliver ebough power for the bike.

      If the batteries check out, then it must be your controller. You will need to find one of the same voltage and replace it.

      Best wishes,

  61. ricerdo says:

    I have a e bike that when I was away a friend of my sis tried to fix and took it all apart not we can’t put it back to get her can someone help with a wiring diagram …

  62. Robert Jones says:

    Hi Zenid, congratulations on what is, for many, a lifesaving blog. Can I ask, can you recommend a direct (or near direct) replacement controller for a UK Ego 60V 2000W scoot?


    Rob Jones

    • zenid10 says:

      Hi Robert,

      One route is to check the “for sale” section of forums like Endless Sphere and try to find a second-hand replacement from a bike with a similar 60V system, you could also ask people dealing in these bikes to see if they have any being broken for parts. Failing that, you could just get a better quality, configurable programmer like one of Lyen’s controllers. The former option is cheaper, obviously, but the controllers Lyen make are much better quality and can be configured for a range of voltages, so you don’t need to change your controller every time you upgrade. It’s also possible to hack the lvc on a Hua Tong generic 72V controller to allow it to be used with lower voltage banks.

  63. david says:

    hy im david ,im looking for a 16s 60v {67.2v} 45a b m s ,its for an e-bike lithum ion pack.
    made of 18650 cell 3.7v 3000ma.
    any help will be good for me ,so pleas respond.
    thx and have a good day

    • zenid10 says:

      First of all, most people tend to favour the newer, LiPO or LiFePO4 cells which have superseded the older Lithium ion technology. You could use a couple of Turnigy 8s chargers, but they will take a good while to charge as they are relatively low powered. Many people opt to build their own BMS from the Fechter Goodrum “Zephyr” boards, as these are specifically designed to charge larger packs (16s/24s/32s+) at up to 20A. However you do need some soldering skills and a basic understanding of electronics. Full details are on my Endless Sphere thread, and further support and background info can be found on Goodrum/Fechter’s thread. You’d have to ask Fechter about making the board compatible with your cells though.

  64. gatherinfo1 says:

    Hi Zenid, congratulation for your blog, it’s the Eden for DIY enthusiasts. I puchased an Ego scoota after reading its potentials on your amazing and accurate blog.
    But after just one day my Ego looks dead.

    I drove it home ( 25km circa) from the guy I purchased it, then I climbed few steps with the scooter in order to park it inside my studio and charge it. When the batteries were full I unplugged the charger, turned the insulator switch to ”OFF”, then I went to work.
    When I come back home, I plugged the charger again for few minutes forgetting to turn on the insulator switch.
    Then I unplugged the charger again, turned the insulator switch and the ignition key to “ON”, but nothing happened, there was just the bottom red light of the battery meter glowing for few seconds , then nothing else. No lights, no engine turning when I twisted the throttle, absolutely nothing.
    The batteries are full charged (4 batteries in series and a fifth one in parallel with the fourth one). the readings are 13.5v, 26.9v, 40.5v, 53.8v, 53.8v.
    Do you think I damaged something because I charged the batteries with the isolator turned to ”OFF”? Or maybe during the climbing of the three steps in front of the main door of my studio (I hurt the bottom part of the scooter while I was doing it)?
    What would be your approach to diagnose the reason of such response from the Ego?


    • zenid10 says:

      First of all, you need to be careful about using those breaker switches too often, as they’re really not designed for DC and generate a big spark every time they’re switched on (see pre-charge switch entry). This isn’t such a problem with lower voltage packs, but when you upgrade to higher voltage ones, they can burn out quite quickly. Really, it’s best to the breaker switch on unless you’re storing it unused for more than a couple of weeks or so.
      Yes, you can charge the bank fine without the breaker switch on, as the charge pins go directly to poles of the battery bank, so can never be “off”. The behaviour of your charger should have made it obvious that it was charging, as it has the little red-green status lights and makes a noise when the fan comes on to keep it cool. That said, the measurements from your bank are consistent with with a 4 series, 48V pack that is fully charged. That dimming, red light you got when you tried to switch on is interesting, as that often happens when you try to start it with the breaker switch OFF. What’s happens is residual power stored in the big capacitors in the controller discharges through the electrics once you turn on the ignition, turning some parts of the bike ‘on’ for a fraction of a second.
      What you need to do next is check that breaker switch: Take a voltmeter and measure across it. If you’re getting a reading of about 53.8V (your reported bank voltage) then the switch is not working. Another test is that you could get somebody to hold a wire shorting the screws at either end of the breaker switch (be careful, it may spark!), thereby bypassing the switch and temporarily forcing it to be “on”. If the bike starts working again, then the switch is faulty.

  65. zenid10 says:

    Hi Zinzet, BMS boards are now back in stock at the shop. See here:

  66. Mark Golding says:

    Hi Zenid – I am thinkin of buying a Eco Street scoota that is listed as not working because “batteries need sorting out” – I believe the battery pack is either 48v or 60v don’t know. If the batteries are dead where can I buy/price a replacement.


    • zenid10 says:

      I think most motorbike shops stock 12V batteries to power the electrical systems, and some of these should be fit for your needs. You need about 12V/24Ah batteries, ideally. You could also try Castleton cars sales, who stock Ego Scootas, and often have spares.

  67. Davina says:

    Hi again. I got one of the boxes you told me about. And I found out it was the transmitter/speed controller. Please do you know we’re I can get one from. Or do you have any for sale? It’s a 1500watts 48v xingling speed controller. I have look on ebay but they arnt the right ones 😦 so if you could point me in the right direction that be really great.
    Thank you again for your help. It’s be a real help.
    Merry Xmas.

    • zenid10 says:

      Hi Davina,
      I’m afraid it’s difficult to find 48V basic controllers. You have three options:
      1) Check the “for sale” section of forums like Endless Sphere and V is for Voltage and see if you can find one second hand. You might also contact Castleton car sales to see if they have one (they sometimes break bikes or stock parts for the Ego scoota)
      2) Modify a 72V controller so the lvc is lower see here
      3) Buy one of Lyen’s more expensive but better quality, configurable controllers which you can set up for the cutoff you want.
      Hope that helps!

  68. Davina says:

    Hi bab. Don’t know if last message posted. 😦
    Could you help me with a 1500w 48v speed controller please? Or could you point me in the right direction please? I bought the little box you told me about and it did tell me it the controller had broke 😦 I’ve looked on ebay but they don’t look the same. To many wires. So if you could help me with this I’d be truly grateful. Thank you again.
    Merry Xmas. To u n yur loved 1s 🙂

  69. Mark Golding says:

    Hi Zenid is this battery size OK to fit x 4off

    [Overlong URL clipped]

    • zenid10 says:

      The dimensions look wrong, and aren’t detailed anywhere.

      The ones I have are 104 x 185mm footprint, 130mm high. You need something that size. Don’t you have the old batteries to compare?

  70. Mark Golding says:

    Thanks Zenid No I haven’t picked the scoota up yet – this Saturday –

  71. john sewell says:

    Hi, thanks for tons of interesting and valuable info. Apologies if asked and answered a dozen times…but can i simply add an extra battery in series with a goodspeed 48v pack without frying the standard controller ? Thanks. John.

  72. Hi Zenid! It’s me again – Andyw from the board!

    Are you still doing controllers? My 72v has died, and I’m having trouble getting the replacement to work (it’s not one of yours).

    Everything’s wired in OK, apart from the Brake Cutoff and Controller Power Feed (Green and Red/Black mini-connector on the wiring loom).

    On the controller side I’ve got a Purple and Red one and a Black and White one as well as a loose white one and some sort of phase wire thing that plugs into itsself…

    Am I correct in supposing that the Purple wire should go to the Green wire and the Red wire on the same connector should go to Red/Black? And the rest can be left alone?

    Currently, without the above wired in, the bike’s lights power up and the brake light comes on when you pull on the brakes, but the accelerator doesn’t work at all. And all of the information with the controller is literally in Chinese. You’re my only hope!

    Whether or not I can get it going I’ll want to buy a fresh controller and a pair of your torque arms if you’ve still got any – I like to have as many spares as possible 🙂


    • Zenid says:

      Hi Andy,

      Yes, I still have some 72V controllers, but I’m down to my last pair of torque arms now, so don’t take too long if you want them (I can’t afford to get another batch made at the moment). You can get these in the shop, as usual.

      The key pages where I document the wiring issues are here:

      48V Controller
      72V Controller

      I include both links here because your purple wire seems to be the brake cut-off (as in my old 48V controller) rather than the white wire usually adopted.

      Yes, I think “the Purple wire should go to the Green wire and the Red wire on the same connector should go to Red/Black” is the usual configuration based on my photo here.

      But if nothing works it’s best to focus on the main power, hub motor, and throttle connections, and leave the brake cut-out (purple or white) wire until you have it up and running. Then wire it in.

      Things to check:

      1) Do the wires on the throttle cable match the colours of the wires on the controller? Sometimes a couple of wires are a different way round and the pins need switched around. Check to make sure the throttle works, or bypass it by shorting the green/red on the controller end of the throttle connector (be careful here, though, and maybe use a little resistor across the points to limit the power)

      2) Are the main Black/Red powers wire AND the thinner, red ‘ignition’ wire receiving power from the bank? Check the voltage of both red wires to make sure they read 72V or whatever. The ignition wire obviously should come on when the key is turned

      3) Sometimes a controller will have differently matched phase wires for the Blue/Green/Yellow connections. You may have to run through all 6 combinations of phase wires on one side until you hit the right combination. Sometimes two need to be reversed, like green and yellow on one side.

      The self-plugging thing (see my page) might need plugging or unplugging if it the 60°/120° Option Switch: Open for 120° (Ego Motor is 120°. It might be an alternate braking switch though, in which case leave it, or try it plugged/unplugged if all else fails.

      Hope this helps.

      Best wishes,

      • OK, this is just weird.

        Plugged it in with Purple to Green and Red to Red/Black, turned on the trip switch (I’d drained the capacitors and everything) and… the bike powered up without even turning on the ignition!

        Turning the ignition on or off had no effect. It just stayed turned on. Still no throttle – should the throttle work without the above wires being connected? I’ve already fixed it up so the colour coding is correct.

      • PS – Unplugged the red one and it’s back to normal. Very strange… Doesn’t make any difference whether I have the (supected) 60°/120° option switch in, the throttle is completely dead 😦 – have bought one of your controllers and if works I’ll get another one as a spare 🙂

  73. Zenid says:

    Andy, I think you have your red ‘ignition’ wire connected directly to the positive of your battery bank, like the main, red power wire. This is sometimes handy as a quick workaround if the ignition mechanism is broken.

    If that red wire is definitely activated by your key/ignition mechanism, then it It looks like the ignition mechanism is broken and stuck in the ‘on’ position. Either that or there’s a wiring problem somewhere. Double-check that the wires coming from the key/ignition barrel are where your red ignition wire is from.

    As a workaround, You could just install a hidden switch (for the ignition wire) to replace the faulty key/ignition mechanism until you can get it sorted. Thanks for the order, I’ll mail the parts to you shortly.

    • I don’t think so because it’s back to normal operation now. The ignition system works again now I’ve pulled the red – Red/Black wire. Also note that it was stuck on.

      I’ll have a look at changing the phase wires. What are the minimum connections the bike needs to make it go?

  74. Zenid says:

    Minimum connections needed are main power wires (Red & Black, thick), ignition wire (rigged to key ignition or bypassed), three phases wires (Blue/Green/Yellow, thick), five-pin hall-sensor plug, and the throttle cable. The brake cut-off wire purple/white) and other wires are optional provided the 60°/120° option is set right.

    If it’s back to normal operation now, why do you want to change the phase wires around? It works now, right?

    • Ah – I meant that the bike is switching “on” and “off” OK – but there’s still no throttle no matter what I do.

      I’m going to try and take a multimeter to it next – do you know what kid of voltages and / or resitance I should expect from the *real* wires? (I’ll try it out on the old 48v controller first).

      I sure hope the motor isn’t busted, but if it is, at least I have a spare – although it needs a tyre put on it :-\

      • Zenid says:

        Test the voltage across the yellow and black wires of throttle. It should read about 1V for ‘off’, and 4.2V for ‘full on’.

        Another quick and dirty test is to quickly short the yellow and black on the controller-end throttle connector (but BE VERY CAREFUL and make sure the wheel is off the ground). If the motor comes to life, without the throttle connected, but doesn’t work connected up, then the throttle must be broken.

        A section of a page on this site gives more information about the throttle and other ways of testing it (by resistance across the wires, for example).

      • Thanks dude! Gonna wait till all the bits arrive and then have a Moped Fixing Day 🙂

      • Sorry to bug you again – Got the new controller, but the one you sent me is different to the one described in the online instructions.

        I’ve identified all of the cables except the usual suspects – what goes to Brake Cut-off and Controller Power Feed? (E and F in the instructions, Green and Red/Black on the bike) And which wire goes with which?

      • Zenid says:

        Sorry, they vary slightly from batch to batch. Here, the brake wire is yellow and says “Brake-hi Cable” on its connector. The ‘ignition’ wire is the red one with a connector labelled “Lock cable” (as in ignition key lock). Let me know if anything else crops up.

      • Waaah! Wired it in back to front (polarity wrong way), then fixed it, and now it powers up but when you pull the throttle the bike bucks and the motor makes a horrible noise.

        Also I noticed something weird when I was draining the capacitors – when you wheel the bike with the ignition on and the trip-switch isolator off, the lowest light on the battery indicators lights up.

        Have I busted it? Or will it be OK if I fit a new wheel or wire in the phase wires another way round?

      • Zenid says:

        How did you manage to reverse wire it? Red and black are coded that way so that it’s practically impossible to get it wrong. That said, you might have gotten away with it, as that horrible noise is also what happens when you have the phase wires in the wrong combination. Switch them through all 6 combinations and see if you can find one that flies.

        If that doesn’t fix it, then test the hub motor/hall sensor as instructed on my site here. If you have spare wheel, you might want to just switch it out if it’s quicker/easier, to see where the problem is, but testing the voltages of the hall sensor really doesn’t take that long.

      • Because I’m an idiot! :-p I was tired and somewhat distraught at the possiblity of not having a moped anymore… but that’s OK, because…

        IT WORKS!!!

        I’ve fixed it! It goes! Vroom vrooom!

        It was indeed the phase wires, the winning combination was Yellow –> Blue
        Blue —–> Yellow
        Green –> Green


        Thanks for all your help. Now I know the mope’s OK, I’ll order another controller around the weekend. E-Mopeds forever! 🙂

      • Zenid says:

        Woohoo! I thought that would do the trick. Nice to know they could be bothered to polarity-protect the unit…

        Happy trails! 🙂

  75. Shanavas K S says: it possible to work this motor with arduino board? I need to control the speed using a joystick and i want use this motor for my application? Please do reply

    • Zenid says:

      Hi Shanavas,

      If you want to use a joystick instead of a throttle, then all you need to do is create a joystick that emulates the voltage of the throttle connector that informs the controller what speed to go. The green wire typically is in the range of 1.0V (for off) and 4.2V (full power). You could make a board that you wire up to the controller throttle connection that could be an adapter for your joystick.

      In a high-end controller like the Lyen 4110 one, there are also programmable speed settings that give you different ‘gears’ (usually 3) at percentages of full speed that you can specify. I hope this helps.

  76. gerald collis says:

    My problem is that the batteries appear top be stuck and `i cannot budge them. Can you suggest any way and why they have stuck. The batteries are about 6 years old and not used for 5 years. I might have to use brute force and pertfhaps put some self tapping screws into the lid to get some leverage. any ideas.

    • Zenid says:

      Attach some strong wires to connectors for the battery terminals. Then you can use the wires to lift out the batteries.

      • Gerald Collis says:

        Thank you but I have managed to get them out and they are worn out. My problem now is that nobody supplies them. The name on them is NOBLIFT rated 12v/28aH but the size does not match any battery available and I have tried many many sources and spoke to many suppliers of batteries with no joy. Any suggestions would be welcomed.

      • Zenid says:

        They’re just ordinary motorcycle batteries, anywhere from 20 to 28Ah. You should be able to find them at any motorbike shop. Failing that, you could try electric bike vendors. I’m afraid I haven’t bought any for years. I have some from before when I upgraded, which I could sell, but you’d have to pick them up.

  77. Damian says:

    Hi Zenid,came across this site while looking for replacement rear brake cables for the Dichao FT2000, I dont suppose you would know where I could get one do you? Cheers man

  78. Gerald Collis says:

    Hi Zenid, I have found some batteries that will fit the battery compartment but they are rated 12v 12aH. If I fitted them what would be the result? Would the scooter work? The battery charger, if i used the one supposed would I damage the batteries by overcharging. Your help and advice greatly appreciated. Regards

    Gerald Collis

    • Zenid says:

      12Ah doesn’t give you very much capacity, and therefore you won’t get much range out of a charge. Ideally you need 20Ah or preferably 28Ah. Castleton Car Sales is where I got my spares, however they seem to have vanished. Have you asked around on Endless Sphere?

  79. Gerald Collis says:

    Where are you based?????

  80. Lee says:

    If you upgrade the controller and increase voltage then how does this affect the registration (i.e. it’s no longer a “moped” with a top speed of 30mph)? Same question for insurance; when I used to modify petrol motorcycles (like putting a 600cc engine in a 400cc bike), it was usually mega-hassle to do it by the book, so blind eyes got turned.

    • Zenid says:

      My DVA documentation says “scooter”, for mine, though I don’t know if this differs from “moped”. A lot of scooters do more than 30mph so I’m unsure of how that limit would work. I had no problems getting mine insured as something I intended modified to do “about 40mph”. People make all sorts of tweaks and mods to engines that might technically require paperwork altering, but it’s up to you how puritanical you want to be about having all your documents 100% legit. Electric bikes and these upgrades are so new that I suspect that you’d have problems finding someone who could even tell you for sure how or whether it affected the paperwork, but if you’re determined, you can make as much unnecessary work and expense for yourself as you want. Personally I think it’s best not worry too much about this, but don’t be deceptive with your insurance company: If you’ve made or intend to make modifications to your bike, then tell them about this when getting a quote if you are asked (you usually are). Being properly covered is the most important thing, IMO.

  81. Dustin Kinnan says:

    I have a razor e300 24 volt scooter I just want to know how to make it faster with stuff I can find around the house or scrap yard?thanks

    • Zenid says:

      I’ve not heard of a 24V scooter, and am not familiar with the controllers they use. However, you could just try overvolting it slightly by upping the voltage of your bank to 30V or so. You should be aware, though, that such tinkering can harm things, and you do so at your own risk.

  82. moses says:

    hi zenid,is there a way oe can make a 48-12 V CONVERTER like the one u made from a tv charger??

  83. musa yesh says:

    hi Zenid,can one use a78v-12v converter on a48v-12v scooter??

    • Zenid says:

      I think you’re talking about a In “20-72V, Out 12V DC/DC Converter” steps which steps down any voltage up to 72V DC (sometimes higher) to 12V or so. You can use these on a 48V bike, because they’re within the voltage range accepted. Your bike though, is not a “48V-12V scooter” it is just a “48V scooter” as that is the voltage of your bike’s battery bank.

  84. Erik says:

    Hello. My name is Erik I bought the Fechter Goodrum 16/24-Channel BMS v4.4b from you. Now all components are installed and it’s working fine,except the LVC. I can’t get it to work. When the batterys hit LVC 3.0 volt in my case,nothing happens. No 12v alarm. Do you have any ideas? Regards Erik.

  85. Boe Boe says:

    hi zenid
    got a ego street scooter all battery have been replaced wiring and was working to the point of when it suddenly cut out i have checked all components and seem to all be in check but i turn key lights come up on dash and no movement in throttle or rear hub motor ??? back light stays on for some odd reason, i have changed fuse still no movement cant think of what else it could be as it was working perfectly turned it off for a split phew seconds to move my garage about and went to ride it in and BAM no movement .. also when i twist throttle there is no sound and battery displays full charge it dosent go up or down … Please HELP !!!!!

    • Zenid says:

      Hi Boe,

      The rear light staying on is the clue here. There is a safety cutoff which turns off the controller when you have the stand down. When you put the stand up again it switches the controller back on via a little switch down by the stand. I think either that:

      a) You haven’t raised the stand leg far enough for it engage the switch, or
      b) that the stand switch is stuck or broken

      Push the stand up securely and see if the back light goes off when you do this. If it doesn’t, you can disconnect the little connector which runs to the switch, thereby circumventing it. Just bear in mind that you will no longer have the safety cut-off when the stand is down, and you need to be careful not to forget about putting the stand up before you use the bike.

      If that doesn’t work:
      1) Check all the wires on the controller. Take a voltage measurement to make sure that the controller is receiving power (the main red/black wires). Also check that you are getting voltage across the throttle connector.

      2) Then check the hub motor

      Let me know how you get on.


  86. Peter Toms says:

    Thanks for the amazing blog, you’ve done a fantastic job – really is outstanding in clarity and detail. I was just given a Saiting ST12 for free, needs new batteries, and I was toying with a LiPO upgrade. I see it’s quite complex! But still interested. I think I’ll check out the rest of the bike to see if it’s a worthwhile investment, bearings and so on. Obviously the cheapest and quickest fix is to load a new SLA pack. But it seems you can go 40 MPH or so on the higher voltage? outstanding.

    • Zenid says:

      Thanks, I’m glad you find the blog useful. Yes, you could up the number of SLA batteries, though the weight can be a strain on brakes and bearings, and it’s best to really good tyres as a precaution. The LiPO/LiFePO4 upgrade gives you better performance for only 40% of the weight of an SLA pack.

  87. Sirwan Alikhani says:

    Hi! I have a VGA VAX electric scooter 45k/h. I want to tune this. Is IT possible, and have can i do it? I really hope you can give an answer🙏🏼🙏🏼

    • Zenid says:

      If it’s a 48V scooter, you may be able to apply the 60V/72V upgrades described here, but it depends on whether you can fit extra batteries on. You would have to take a look at the upgrade instructions and see if the configuration of your bike will allow the upgrades described. It also depends on whether your bike uses SLA (lead acid) batteries, or uses a Lithium pack.

  88. Sarah says:

    This is an amazing blog! I recently picked up a secondhand (about 8 years old) ego scooter and I’m slowly getting to grips with it, reading this blog has been really helpful.
    The scooter I have is in decent working condition, but the range I’m getting at the minute is only about 5 miles (ideally I’d want about 15-20 miles out of it on a charge really at least). I’m guessing the easiest thing to do to improve that is to just replace the existing 12v batteries – is there anything else you’d recommend looking at doing to start off with? I don’t have a lot of experience in this area so looking for some easy-ish things I can do to improve things to start with.

    • Zenid says:

      Hi Sarah,
      It sounds like you need to replace the batteries or get them serviced in some way. You could try Endless Sphere forum to find people who might have some spare, or get advice on trying to rescue any bad ones. In the first instance you should try charging them separately and in situ (in place) to see if they are all holding their charge (13V or so fully charged). That way you can identify which one are bad.
      Best wishes,

  89. Sarah says:

    Hi Zenid,

    I’m having some issues with my ego scooter. I’ve replaced the batteries, all tested and have worked perfectly fine on a couple of journeys (this is probably unrelated to my current problem).

    On a my last journey I stopped at some lights and was unable to get going again – the dash lights were all on, but the throttle wasn’t responding at all. Front and back lights are working, but no sound/battery meter feedback from the throttle at all. I have noticed that the rear light seems to be permanently on (currently up on center stand in my garage, haven’t checked with it down but will do).

    From scanning through old comments it looks similar to an issue someone else had where you suggested that there is a safety cutoff which turns off the controller when you have the stand down – I assume side stand. I don’t have the side stand down (it’s firmly up) but wondering if it’s some kind of fault there. I can’t see an obvious connector there so wondered if you had any photos/docs to point me in the right direction so I can have a check/try disabling it to see if that’s the issue?

    Also worth mentioning that I did get the throttle briefly working a couple of times after the initial stop, seemingly by just tapping the throttle. However each time after I pushed it off the stand and attempted to set off it cut off pretty quickly (figured maybe something was jolting loose?). I’ve tried replacing the throttle in case that was faulty but am experiencing the same issues with the new part so have ruled that out.

    Next on my list is to do a proper check of the controller and the hub motor, but I wanted to make sure I understood the safety cutoff first.

    Any help gratefully appreciated!


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